Redesigning More than Just Clothes: Shubhra Chandra Shares Journey in the Fashion Industry
Before sustainable clothing began trending a few years ago, some designers had already noticed the irreversible impact fast fashion had on our environment – and Shubhra Bhattacharya Chandra is one of them. In 2008 — after an extensive fashion education at the National Institute of Fashion Technology and Michigan State University, as well as years of experience working with prominent fashion companies — she founded her sustainable fusion fashion company, Shubrah. She repurposes the rich, cultural garments of India such as saris and other textiles into her designs, mitigating some of the wastage of today’s fast-paced fashion world. In addition to fashion entrepreneurship, she is also a singer, Broadway fanatic, mother, and college advisor. She loves working with women to showcase their talents and encouraging them to enter the arts. She spoke with Women Who Win on her inspirations and journey.
1. Tell us your story. You are a fashion designer, with an interest in fusion fashion and sustainable/eco-friendly fashion. What inspired your interest in becoming a fashion entrepreneur and designer?
Growing up in India, there was no domestic fashion industry at the time. There were hardly any stores with "ready made clothes". We watched a lot of movies and I was very interested in art and music. My father was a scientist in the army and we moved a lot during my childhood. My parents always made sure that I had an art teacher and a vocal music teacher wherever we lived. My aunts and uncles were all hobbyists with singing, art, theater and dance embedded in our daily lives. I was always fascinated by the textiles that were locally available and the tailors that could stitch men's suits and women's sari blouses with such skill. I started sketching out dresses, buying fabrics and then taking them to our tailor for him to sew for me.
When I was in high school in Delhi, I started performing in Broadway musicals and singing Western music and this continued in Delhi University. I studied Economics (Honors) at Lady Shri Ram college and received my B.A. degree and knew that I wanted to have a career in a creative field. I interned for a year at an advertising agency called Lintas, and then applied for a new college that was opening called the National Institute of Fashion Technology (N.I.F.T) where the Dean and Professors were coming from Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T) New York to set up the program in Delhi. No one knew what they were going to teach for two years (the program has now grown to three years and with branches all over India). I was among the first batch of designers that the college trained. The US faculty picked 25 students from all over India with a three day interview process of tests, portfolio reviews and panel discussions. After NIFT, I moved to the US to get my Master's degree in Clothing and Textiles with a concentration in Apparel Design from Michigan State University where I received a full scholarship as a Teaching Assistant on the recommendation of my professors at F.I.T., NY. I worked for large fashion retailers in the US, traveling all over the world, developing and sourcing products for 17 years.
In 2008, I left my corporate career to start my own fashion company. I had seen too much waste and churn with the large fashion retailers. Fast fashion meant that we were creating products for six seasons per year, most of which were deeply discounted and discarded, eventually. We were constantly using synthetic fabrics, using dyes and materials harmful to the environment, air shipping products all over the world to meet artificial deadlines and using a lot of plastic and other non- biodegradable materials. When these products did not sell, they were in landfills. My idea was to slow the cycle down. Use organic or natural materials and "upcycle" the fabrics that were hand woven and made lovingly by artisans and weavers. India has a wealth of natural fabrics, artisans and crafts' people. Why not use and reuse saris and textiles to create timeless design? Having no brick and mortar footprint, selling directly via the web to the customer was also very appealing from a carbon footprint point of view. I started Shubrah.com. Was I very early in 2008 with a slow, sustainable, fusion brand? Perhaps. But I have always followed my own instincts in my career and I continue to design and create with these principles in mind.
2. What are some fashion design trends you are excited about in 2023 forward?
The global fashion industry is the largest employer of labor and also manufactures the largest amount of products. Given these facts, the industry is also the largest contributor to environmental pollution and landfills. The words "sustainable", "upcycle", "reuse", "natural fabrics", "artisans", "weavers", "knitters", "organic", "bi- degradable," "local", "carbon footprint", "slow fashion" are in every consumer's vocabulary now. But "green washing" is also a phenomenon we should be wary of. I'm excited to see that businesses and clients/consumers today are paying attention to where things are manufactured and how they are being made. Are we educating the customer enough regarding paying fair wages to people who are manufacturing their fashions? Are the products actually sustainable, or is it just labeling? I am excited that we are having conversations about women entrepreneurs and our journeys.
3. How would you describe your designs? And what was one of the challenges you faced in the fashion industry?
My designs are completely sustainable, made with hand made or natural fabrics, with a fusion flair and inspired by India. My biggest challenges as a woman entrepreneur have been marketing (I only do this online via social media and word of mouth/organic marketing), increasing sales and getting funding. I initially bootstrapped the online business with our savings. In 2023, I'm ready to expand the business and also figure out how to find partners and funding. Being a woman entrepreneur of color, a corporate fashion industry employee, and a mother has made me very aware of the challenges that women face and I am a strong believer in empowering young women to be independent thinkers and business owners.
4. In addition to your work in fashion, you coach students on the college process. Tell us more about your work here. What is your advice to young women for applying to college?
I have two children. In 2016, when my daughter was applying to college, she wanted to showcase her photographs and ceramics for college admissions offices to view. She was not interested in studying art as a major but was applying to Liberal Arts programs and wanted to include her activities. I helped her create a website, plan some exhibitions of her work, build an online portfolio and write her essay about her creative journey. She now lives in NYC and has been working for a large media firm in social media marketing. That's when other parents started asking me to help their children. In 2019, when my son was applying to colleges, I helped him as well. He is a singer and wanted to showcase his voice for college admissions, though he was not going to major in Music. He is currently a Junior at Harvard College, studying Economics and singing with the Harvard Glee Club.
In 2020, I received the Diploma from Cornell University for Women Entrepreneurs (e Cornell, Bank of America Institute). I am also an Associate Member of the Independent Educational Consultants Association (IECA). I really enjoy working with high school students, as I feel that after the pandemic, the students who use their brain for creative pursuits are able to achieve mental wellness and de-stress. College admissions are now about more than just academics. They are about looking at the "whole human being", that is, the student's activities outside of school, volunteer work and paid jobs, hobbies, sports and all the other aspects of the US high school experience. I work with high achieving students to develop their portfolios for fashion, fine arts, graphic design, architecture and vocal music. Most of my students so far have been women.
My advice to young women is one of empowerment. Follow your dreams, follow your passions and make it work for you. And find your support team and mentors, they are out there. Education is the key to opening doors and creating new paths. I believe that our generation as educated, global career women and mothers can show young women of today that we can achieve all the goals we set for ourselves and also give back to our community.
5. This is a fun one. What is your favorite hobby? How do you relax and unwind?
Singing! All genres of music. I love to go to Broadway shows and the theater, watch movies and TV shows that have great costume design, music and good stories. I have been singing since I was eight years old, learning songs in Hindi, Bengali and English. I have two music groups I am currently part of, one is Bollywood themed and the other is Western Pop and Rock and Roll. For many years, I have been singing at weddings, sometimes for friends' children who are getting married or relatives. I enjoy learning new songs, performing and recording them. During the pandemic, I started painting again. I have been doing oil and acrylic paintings on canvas, as opposed to the watercolor and ink fashion sketches I do for work. I am now active in the Painter’s guild at LEXART and show my paintings via their gallery and website. Singing and Art, along with my book club helped me to unwind during the past few years of global turmoil and personal loss, along with walking my Portuguese water dog, Shadow.