The Kashmiri Kitchen - Bela Kaul Shares Her Favorite Traditional Recipes
“Kashmiri cuisine has a wide range with certain qualities that set it apart from other cuisines of India. “ Today’s woman dreamer, Bela Kaul, brings you to the Kashmiri Kitchen. From Fried Sweet Bread (Roth) to delicious lotus roots, dum aloo (potatoes) and a mutton curry, Bela shares how she seeks to share her traditional recipes with the next generation and bring awareness of Kashmiri culture and heritage. To Bela, “success of a meal is in its appeal to eyes, nose and the tongue, meaning food should look great, its aroma should invigorate appetite and it should open up your taste buds.” Enjoy her story (and delicious recipes) in this edition of Not Your Average Kitchen.
1) Tell us your story. What inspired your interest in cooking and food?
I was born and brought up in the Jammu & Kashmir state of India. My inspiration comes from the land, Kashmir, where I was born. The place where I grew up, Srinagar, is the largest city in the Kashmir valley and the northernmost city in India. It is situated at 5,200 feet above the sea level in the Himalayas. Kashmir is known for its natural beauty and is considered as a paradise. Its climate, picturesque natural scenery with beautiful lakes, snowcapped mountains, pine trees and sweet water of springs is ever inviting. In addition, Kashmir is known for its fine cuisine, hospitality and Kehwa, the legendary tea of Kashmir in brass cups, called “Khasu”. If you have been to Kashmir, then you will agree that there is romance and intrigue about the place that beckons you to come visit again. And, if you have not been to Kashmir, then put it on your bucket list.
The state has a unique status of having two capitals, Srinagar during summer and Jammu during winter (six months each). Being a state employee, my Dad had to move every six months. And, during my teenage years, I ended up accompanying my Dad and cooking for the two of us became my responsibility. It started as a necessity and later became my hobby to experiment new recipe’s and ended up as becoming a passion for me to promote Kashmiri cuisine.
My philosophy for success of a meal is in its appeal to eyes, nose and the tongue, meaning food should look great, its aroma should invigorate appetite and it should open up your taste buds. To sum it up, for me, cooking is a relaxing affair and feeding and serving food is an enjoyable experience for me.
2) How would you describe Kashmiri cuisine to those unfamiliar with it? How is it different from other Indian food? What makes it unique?
India is a country with diverse cultures and cuisine. Most northern states favor richer foods with lots of ghee, meat and wheat whereas the south favors tropical flavors, coconut milk and rice.
Let me tell you, Kashmiri cuisine has a wide range with certain qualities that set it apart from other cuisines of India. The food is prepared in a sattvic way, generally cooked fresh, is light, juicy, tasty and nourishing thus giving the necessary energy to the body in a balanced way. Kashmir is known as the land of rishis and its people inherited the knowledge of medicinal values and aromatic qualities of various spices and condiments from Ayurveda. The absence of onions and garlic in preparation of the curries dates back to the Vedic period. The essence of Kashmiri cuisine is the use of Aniseed (fennel/Sounf powder), dry Ginger (Sundh powder), Asafetida (Hing) and a special condiment of various spices put together in form of a bar called “Var” to add flavor and to garnish the dish. The most important flavor in the Kashmiri canon is saffron which is known to be sweet, colorful and has better aroma. For the benefit of your readers, I must mention some of the meditational qualities: Ginger powder helps with respiratory problems, fights influenza and helps address migraines; Fennel powder has digestive qualities; Chili powder fights flu and scares away those colds; and Asafetida provides relief against colic and helps overcome nervousness disorders.
The use of dried fruits, nuts and vegetables in its cuisine is also unique to Kashmir. A traditional Kashmiri meal combines all courses into one course, finishing with a bowl of yogurt as desserts do not occupy a very important place and are served mainly on festive occasions. A meal in Kashmiri cuisine ensures a balanced intake of protein, carbohydrate, fiber, calcium and minerals.
Finally, I consider cooking as an art and the unique taste of Kashmiri cuisine comes from the careful way of combining various spices and herbs and from the ratio in which they are combined to generate the final taste.
3) As the platform for women dreamers, what is your next big dream?
Cooking is relaxing for me but to pen down the recipe’s and catalog them has so far been like a big task for me. I want to be able to do that as I want to pass on the knowledge to those who may be interested and also to popularize the Kashmiri cuisine. I want to be able to share these recipes’ that have been handed down from one generation to the other and made better over the years by improvising. The idea is to popularize the culture and heritage of the area from where we came.
The Kashmiri Kitchen
Check out Some of Bela’s delicious recipes below!
#1 DumAloo (Kashmiri pronunciation: “Dama Oluv”)
Serving Size: 4-5 people
Ingredients:
Medium size round potatoes (red skin)- 10
Cooking oil - ½ cup (8 tsp)
Fennel powder - ½ to 1 tsp
Ginger powder - 1 tsp
Asafetida (Hing) - 1 pinch
Red Chili powder or Paprika - 2 tsp
Turmeric- ½ tsp
Cumin seeds (crushed) - 1 tsp
Cloves (crushed) - 3 to 4
Black Cardamom (Badi Elachi crushed) - 2
Green Cardamom (crushed) - 2
Cinnamon - 1 stick or ½ tsp powder
Bay Leaves - 2 to 3
Yogurt - ½ cup
Salt to taste - 1 tsp
Var (if available) or Garam Masala - 1 tsp
Water
Method:
Either place potatoes in a polythene bag and microwave for 9 minutes, let it cool and then peel off the skin or cover potatoes with water in a pan and boil till its skin can be peeled off.
Prick through the peeled potatoes on all sides with a tooth pick and set them aside.
Heat cooking oil in a frying pan at medium heat. Once the oil is hot deep fry the potatoes, turning them frequently with a perforated ladle till these are uniformly fried to a golden yellow color. Keep the potatoes aside.
Take a cooking pan, take about 3 to 4 tsp of oil (from the one used in frying) and heat it. Add Cloves, Cumin seeds and Asafetida to the oil. Stir with a ladle.
Sauté’ with red chili powder or paprika, turmeric and Bay leaves
Now add well beaten Yogurt to which a couple of table spoons of water have been added along with Fennel and Ginger powders. Continue stirring till the curd and spices blend together with oil.
Add already fried potatoes to the mix. Make sure the spiced sauce covers these all over. Add 2 to 3 cups of water to immerse the potatoes completely.
Add salt to taste.
Now, cover the pan with a lid and cook on low heat for 15 to 20 minutes till spiced gravy and oil soaks to the very core of the Potatoes and these turn brown and the gravy thickens and oil starts to separate.
Add/sprinkle Var or Garam Masala, Black & Green Cardamom, and Cinnamon. Turn gently to let the spices get mixed.
Dum Aloo is ready to be served with plain white rice. Usually one or two pieces are served with a little of thick gravy to each person.
#2 Lotus Root with Yogurt (Kashmiri Name: “Nadur Yakhean”)
Serving Size: 4-5 people
Ingredients:
Lotus Roots - 2 lbs. (available in Indian or Chinese Store)
Cooking oil - 1 cup
Yogurt- 1 lb.
Milk - 1 cup
Cloves- 4
Cumin seeds - 1 tsp
Asafetida (Hing) - 1 pinch
Ginger powder - 1 tsp
Fennel powder - 2 tsp
Black Pepper Powder- 1 tsp
Black Cardamom (seeds crushed) — ½ tsp
Cinnamon- 1 stick or ½ tsp powder
Garam Masala- 1 tsp
Green Cardamom (crushed) - 2
Bay Leaves -2 to 3
Salt to taste - 1 tsp
Water
Preparation:
Chop off the lotus root heads (ends) if any. Clean the lotus root holes for any dirt under running water. Also, thoroughly wash the outside. Cut the lotus root vertically into 1 to 2-inch-thick round pieces.
Method:
Take lotus root pieces in a pan and cover with water. Add crushed Black Cardamom seeds, Green Cardamom, Bay leaves and heat to boil till the lotus root pieces are tender. Strain and take the lotus root pieces out and let the hot water cool.
Beat Yogurt and milk together or mix in a blender, add it to the water from above. Then add Fennel, Ginger and Black Pepper powders. Add salt to taste. Blend together all these ingredients to a curdy sauce.
Heat cooking oil in a frying pan at medium heat. Once the oil is hot, Add Cloves, Cumin seeds and Asafetida. Stir with a ladle and then add the curdy sauce prepared in the previous step. Continue stirring on low heat till the sauce comes to a boil.
Add already boiled lotus root pieces to the mix. Make sure the spiced sauce covers these all over. If needed, add little water to immerse the lotus roots completely.
Cook on low heat for 15 to 20 minutes and keep turning the lotus root pieces with a ladle till spiced gravy soaks to the very core of the lotus root pieces and the gravy thickens.
Add Garam Masala, green Cardamom and Cinnamon. Turn gently to let the spices get mixed.
Lotus root is ready to be served with plain white rice. Usually one or two pieces are served with a little of thick gravy to each person.
#3 Rogan Josh (“Mutton Curry”)
Serving Size: 5-6 people
Ingredients:
Mutton - 2 lbs.
Cooking oil - 1 cup
Yogurt - 1 cup
Cloves - 5
Red Chili powder or Paprika- 2 tsp
Turmeric- ½ tsp
Cumin seeds- 1 tsp
Asafetida (Hing) - 1 pinch
Ginger powder - 2 tsp
Fennel powder - 2 tsp
Black Cardamom (seeds crushed) - ½ tsp
Cinnamon - 1 stick or ½ tsp powder
Garam Masala - 1 tsp
Green Cardamom (crushed) - 2
Bay Leaves (optional)- 2 to 3
Salt to taste- 2 tsp
Sugar- ½ tsp
Butter - 2 tbs
Water
Preparation:
Buy mutton with bones either from shoulder or thigh area. Get 1 to 2-inch-thick pieces. Wash the mutton and throw away the water.
Method:
Take a cooking pan with a thick bottom of about 4 liters’ capacity. Put cooking oil in it and heat it on moderate heat.
Meanwhile cover mutton pieces evenly with yogurt.
When the oil heats up, add the mutton pieces. Add crushed Black Cardamom seeds, Green Cardamom, Cinnamon, Cloves, Bay leaves, Cumin seeds, salt and Asafetida.
Keep turning the meat with a ladle. Liquid will start coming out of the meat and the yogurt will dry up and the meat begins to get fried in the oil. Continue turning the meat while frying it for about 10 minutes till it becomes golden brown.
Add a little water about half a cup, then add Red Chili powder or Paprika, Turmeric and the sugar. Keep turning the meat till it becomes brownish red in color and almost all water evaporates. Make sure that meat pieces do not stick to the bottom of the cooking pan.
Again, add one and a half cup of water, Ginger powder, Fennel powder and salt to taste. Stir and mix well and let it simmer on low heat till the meat becomes tender and the gravy becomes thick, red and oily.
Add butter and Garam Masala
Cover and cook on low heat for 3 to 5 minutes more and keep turning the meat pieces with a ladle till spiced gravy soaks to the very core of each piece and the gravy thickens.
Rogan Josh is ready to be served with plain white rice. Usually one or two pieces are served with a little of thick gravy to each person.
#4 Roth (Fried Sweet Bread)
Roth/sweet bread is prepared on certain festivals and auspicious occasions. Kashmiri Pandits prepare these on Vinayak (Ganesh) Chaturthi (also called Punn Ceremony). After puja, the Prasad is distributed to neighbors, friends & family. It is a token of gratitude to the Almighty for all that is available to us for our survival and to invoke the blessings of Mother Goddess for our prosperity.
Serving Size: 8-10 people
Ingredients:
All-purpose flour - 7 cups
Sugar- 2½ cups
Desi Ghee / Butter- 1/2 cup for prep & 3 cups for frying
Black Cardamom (seeds crushed - 1 tsp
Coconut Zest - ½ cup
Water - 1 cup
Milk - 1 cup
Baking Powder - 1/2 tsp
Almonds - 30
Khus-Khus (Poppy seed) - 10 grams
Preparation:
To the all-purpose flour, thoroughly mix sugar, crushed cardamom seeds, coconut zest and baking powder. You could do this either in a food processor or dough maker or in a bowl by hand. To this, add desi ghee/butter. Once all ingredients are thoroughly mixed, slowly add water and milk and start kneading it to make it into a semi-stiff elastic dough which should not stick to the hands or to the utensil. Keep it aside and cover with a fresh wet cloth for it to rise.
Soak almonds in water and after they become tender, peel them.
Method:
From the kneaded dough, take a medium size portion (about 125 grams) and roll into balls between your palms. Now roll out these balls on a clean bread board using a rolling pin into flat rounds called Roth of ½ inch thickness and 8-inch diameter.
Pierce with a fork all over to make any design of your liking.
Press two or three peeled almonds on to this bread.
In a deep frying pan, add three cups of Desi Ghee / Butter. Put it on medium heat.
Add and fry Roth, one at a time, till Roth/Bread becomes golden/reddish brown
Fry on both sides by turning carefully with a ladle. Once it becomes stiff, take it out of the frying pan and transfer to a plat pan covered with paper towel. The paper towel will absorb all the excess ghee/butter.
Sprinkle with Poppy seed. These seeds will stick because of Ghee/butter.
Let it cool and the Roth is ready.
This Roth (Sweet bread is usually served with Kashmiri Kehwa. If Kehwa is not available, it can be served with green tea.
These Roth’s can be stored for many days.